Charleston Wine + Food: Reflections from the 20th Anniversary

Charleston is such a nostalgic place for me, cooking there in my beginning years of trying to become a chef. The festival has changed the culinary landscape and notoriety on a national level that Charleston now gets. Being asked to participate, especially on this anniversary, is a huge honor, and an homage to my younger self. This marks my 10th year in the festival. 

The Dewberry

Such a beautiful hotel, located in the heart of Charleston, the setting was in their courtyard with the most perfect weather you could ask for. Their team and chefs, front of house teams, are very gracious, talented and accommodating.

Being invited by Chef Mike Lata was one of the highlights of my career. Growing up cooking in Charleston and knowing Chef Lata and the impact he’s had on this region is iconic. So being asked to cook at The Ordinary, which is one of my favorite restaurants in Charleston, was certainly an honor. 

The Ordinary

The dishes chosen for each of these events were based on our fantastic winter-driven ingredients in North Carolina and from our farm. One of my favorites was the Blue Fin Tuna toro, with Lady Edison country ham, pickled baby red onion, and black truffle vinaigrette. I chose this dish because The Ordinary does a lot of raw seafood presentations. I wanted to create a dish in the same vein, with my style of Southern ingredients and Japanese influence. 

The Charleston hospitality culture is something that has stuck with me my whole career because of the way they treat each other. Each chef and restaurant around town always takes care of each other. It feels community-driven, supportive and there’s a general sense of positivity all around.

Dining in Charleston

I found a lot of inspiration in dining in some of the restaurants while I was down there: Wild Common, Edmond’s Original, and The Ordinary. All such unique experiences with different flavors and amazing technique. At Wild Common, Chef Orlando’s flavor combinations and detailed finesse are apparent in his beautiful cuisine. Edmond’s Original shows incredible hospitality. Scott, Suzy and the team were all so inviting and welcoming. Chef Bob, as I told him, “I feel like you can make anything taste good.” His impact of flavors in every dish is off the charts. Dining at The Ordinary, speaks comfort matched with elegance in the setting and wonderful waitstaff. The food is always amazingly-fresh and delicate with fun and exciting flavors, while still holding true to a sense of place. 

Closing Remarks

A big thank you again to The Dewberry, The Ordinary and Charleston Wine & Food for the opportunity to share this experience. 

The team and I always gain so much inspiration from these events. Whether it's the culture or the town we are visiting, this was certainly a memorable experience in many ways that we can bring back to our guests at Herons and The Umstead as a whole.

Chef Steven Devereaux Greene

Steven Devereaux Greene is the Executive Chef of Herons at The Umstead where he combines his Carolina roots with classical training from some of the world’s most esteemed kitchens. Known for his progressive approach to American regional cuisine, Chef Greene highlights the bounty of the Piedmont through seasonal dishes inspired by The Umstead’s own One Oak Farm.

A multi-year James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Southeast, his leadership has guided Herons to earn Forbes’ Five-Star recognition and Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence. Named a Krug Ambassade in 2025, Greene continues to define The Umstead’s culinary philosophy of storytelling and a deep connection to place.

https://www.instagram.com/devereauxgreene
Next
Next

From Kayak to Krug: The Story Behind Herons’ Signature Oysters